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In Skin’n’Ink Charlie Gray from Menspire Academy presents how to achieve a 90s inspired, fierce but modern crop working with a skin fade and a messy vibe through the top of the head.

Charlie is working with graduation through the sides starting from 0, into the contour of the head building up a square shape, leaving the fringe quite structured through the front with a soft and chewy effect through the exterior shape. Throughout the cut, Charlie focuses on creating something natural and easy to style, to achieve the look the model will wear 90% of the time.

Whilst sectioning the hair, it’s important to apply the technique and the cut to model’s or customer’s head shape – everyone’s head is different, it might be squarer or rounder, therefore it’s important to teach the techniques which can be applied to many different haircuts rather than teaching haircuts themselves. Also in this cut, Charlie adjusts his lines to follow the natural growth patterns and compliment model’s natural features. 

To create a strong, masculine look, Charlie implements squareness within the haircut, working with horizontal (block) graduation on the sides, allowing him to create a solid, graduated line. To remain in control of your cutting line, Charlie recommends cutting vertically rather than horizontally on the frontal zone, despite dealing with short hair, using overdirection to control the horizontal shape. 

Charlie also presents how to do a perfect fade using one of the two methods, choosing the guards keeping technique over the descending graduation and shows how to go from 0.5 to 2.5 ascending up a fade and pushing the weight up, followed by descending down it to get rid of any occurring lines, later refined through pick fading, using the corners of the clipper. 


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